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Wat Pak Nam Temple Meditation Retreat in Bangkok
Wat Pak Nam Phasi Charoen is another prominent temple in Bangkok with a strong focus on meditation. It’s known for being the origin of the Dhammakaya meditation technique, which is a form of Samatha (concentration) meditation, different from the more widely practiced Vipassana approach.
The meditation practice at Wat Pak Nam focuses on deep concentration by visualizing a bright object, such as a crystal ball or a glowing light, at the center of the body. This technique is intended to lead to profound calm, clarity, and, eventually, higher states of consciousness. The goal of this method is to purify the mind, leading practitioners to inner peace and insight.
Wat Pak Nam offers meditation programs to both locals and foreigners, although the teaching is mostly in Thai. However, in recent years, there has been an increase in support for international visitors, with some English-speaking monks and lay practitioners who assist with guiding foreigners through the meditation process. This is really helpful as most temples don’t offer this.
A unique aspect of Wat Pak Nam is its connection to modern Thai Buddhist culture—its abbot in the mid-20th century, Luang Pu Sodh, is considered the reviver of the Dhammakaya technique, and the temple is linked to the larger Dhammakaya Movement, which has gained a lot of influence in Thailand.
The temple itself is an impressive structure, with a massive stupa (called the “Great Stupa” or “Maha Chedi”) that’s famous for its striking glass interior and golden Buddha statues. This stupa has become a popular attraction for both meditators and tourists coming to Bangkok.
You can stay at the temple for as long as you’d like. The environment is simple but supportive of deep practice. As with most Thai temples, modest clothing and a respectful attitude are expected. Meditators here usually take part in chanting, meditation sessions, and temple duties as part of their retreat experience.
Wat Pak Nam is an excellent place to explore if you’re interested in concentration meditation (Samatha) or want to try something different from the usual 10 day Vipassana-based retreats. It offers a meditative atmosphere, particularly if you’re seeking a retreat that takes you away from busy Bangkok.
Meaning of Wat Pak Nam
The meaning is ‘Monastery at the mouth of the river.’
Address
Therdthai Rd., Amper Phasicharoen, Bangkok 10160. Telephone – (02) 467-0811
Directions
Wat Pak Nam is located in the Thonburi district, just west of the Chao Phraya River, away from the typical tourist areas, giving it a more peaceful and less commercial vibe compared to central Bangkok temples.
Located west across the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, part of metropolitan Bangkok. Easily reached by city buses #4, 9, or 103. If you don’t mind some spray (the water isn’t too clean), you can take a long-tailed boat to the wat from Rajinee (Rachini) and Saphan Phut jetties north of the Memorial Bridge on the east side of the Chao Phraya.
Meditation System
The technique begins by concentrating on a point inside the body in the center of the abdomen, 2 finger-widths above the navel. This point is said to be the place where consciousness has its seat. The words “Samma Araham” can be repeated mentally to aid the initial development of concentration.
A luminous nucleus appears at the center point, then develops into a still and translucent sphere about 2 cm in diameter. Within the sphere appears another nucleus which emerges into a sphere. The process continues with increasingly refined spheres or forms appearing in succession. The high levels of concentration achieved are used in vipassana to develop penetrating insight.
A qualified teacher is important in this practice. The late abbot Ven. Chao Khun Mongkol-Thepmuni (1884-1959) popularized this meditation system. The wat has a book in English, “Samma Samadhi” by T. Magness, which explains the technique in detail.
Teaching Method
Individual interviews as needed. Talks in Thai by a monk or a tape recording of Ven. Chao Khun Mongkol-Thepmuni are given 2 or 3 times a day at group sittings in the meditation hall.
Meditation Teachers
- Chao Khun Bhawana Kosol Thera (Thai; age 72); he speaks English and Japanese.
- Ven. P.K. Bhavananuwat (Thai; age 77); he speaks a little English.
Languages
Teachers speak some English and people are usually around who can translate. Easiest for one who can speak Thai. There are always some western-speakers here who speak English.
Description
The “bot” and many large, multi-story buildings are tightly packed on the 17-rai (7-acre) grounds. Urban setting. Large crowds of worshippers come on weekends and Buddhist holidays. The wat dates back to the early 18th century in the Ayuthaya Period.
Size
- monks: 200-400 (one of the largest populations in Thailand during the Rains Retreat)
- novices: 80-90
- nuns: 200-300
- laypeople: about 100 (half of them practice meditation)
Daily Routine
Meditators can practice individually or attend group sessions.
Food
Good quality and variety; offered in the temple at daybreak and at 11 a.m. Monks and novices can go on pindabat if they wish (walking around the local area to accept food from local people). Laypeople eat after monks and novices.
Accommodations
Monks and novices usually stay in individual rooms, some with attached Thai- or western-style bathrooms. Nuns have shared rooms. Laypeople may be able to stay except during the Rains Retreat.
Write in Advance?
Not necessary, just arrive.
Ordination
Yes, it is possible here. Men spend a minimum of one month as a layman, then 3 months as a novice before full ordination as a monk. Women can request magee (nun) ordination, though no Westerners have done so.
Other Information
Ven. Chao Khun Mongkol-Thepmuni revived this system of meditation, sometimes called “Dhammakaya.” He’s very highly venerated by the Thais. A shrine room in the wat contains his coffin and a life-like wax statue. Laypeople practicing meditation normally follow 8 precepts and wear white clothing; visitors staying a week or two can follow 5 precepts and wear regular clothing.
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[Top image by Charoen Petchkit – freely offered for publication. 🙂 Thank you!]