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Wat Umong – Chiang Mai, Thailand Meditation Retreat
Wat Umong, officially known as Wat Umong Suan Phutthatham, is a unique and historic temple and meditation retreat located in the foothills of Doi Suthep in Chiang Mai, Thailand. It’s well-known for its tranquil forest setting, ancient tunnels, and relaxed approach to meditation, making it a popular destination for both Thai locals and international visitors who seek a peaceful retreat.
Wat Umong offers a unique blend of natural beauty, ancient history, and relaxed meditation practice. It’s an ideal retreat center for those looking for a flexible and serene environment to practice Vipassana meditation without the pressure of a strict schedule.
The peaceful forest setting, ancient tunnels, and supportive atmosphere make it a wonderful option for beginners or experienced meditators seeking a spiritual recharge. Whether you’re staying for a few days or a few weeks, Wat Umong provides a deeply meditative experience in the heart of Northern Thailand’s rich cultural landscape.
Wat Umong is one of the oldest temples in Chiang Mai, dating back over 700 years. It was founded during the reign of King Mengrai in the late 13th century and has long been a place of spiritual significance. The temple is home to several ancient Buddha images, old stone inscriptions, and a large stupa (Buddhist relic monument). This deep historical and cultural connection adds to the spiritual atmosphere of the meditation retreat.
One of the temple’s unique features is its tunnel system that winds through the base of the artificial hill. These tunnels were constructed for monks to meditate in isolation, and visitors today can still explore and meditate inside them. The combination of historical significance, natural beauty, and spiritual energy makes Wat Umong a fascinating and inspiring place for meditation practice.
Meaning of Wat Umong
In Thai language, this means the ‘Monastery with tunnels.’
Wat Umong is also known as Suan Buddha Dhamma (‘Garden of Buddha’s teachings’)
Address
Tambon Suthep, Ampur Muang, Chiang Mai 50000. Telephones: 0-5381-0965, 09-1071-8209, 08-5033-3809. Email: [email protected]
Directions
Located 3.5 km west of Chiang Mai. The easiest way is by tuk-tuk or bicycle. Or, take a city bus #1 or songthaew west 2.5 km on Suthep Rd. (_not_ the same road to Doi Suthep Temple) to Wang Nam Kan, then follow signs south 1 km to the wat.
Chiang Mai is 700 km north of Bangkok and the most important city of the north. Frequent bus, train, and air services connect Chiang Mai with Bangkok and other major centers. Telephone: (053) 277-248 (call only from 8:30 am. to 4 pm.)
Wat Umong is located just outside Chiang Mai’s old city, about 15 minutes by car or tuk-tuk. Its close proximity to the city makes it a convenient option for travelers or those already staying in Chiang Mai. Despite its accessibility, the temple feels like a world away from the busy city, offering a quiet, secluded environment perfect for meditation.
Meditation System
Anapanasati, similar to teaching at Suan Mokkh. One is free to use one’s own meditation techniques.
Like many meditation centers in Thailand, Wat Umong teaches Vipassana meditation, the insight meditation technique aimed at developing mindfulness of body, feelings, mind, and mental phenomena. The practice is rooted in Buddhist teachings and encourages meditators to observe their thoughts, emotions, and sensations without attachment.
However, unlike more intensive Vipassana retreats, Wat Umong’s meditation programs are often more flexible and relaxed, making it a good option for beginners or those who want a less rigid schedule.
Teaching Method
Teachers are available for questions. Talks in English are given every Sunday 3-6 pm. at the Chinese Pavilion near the pond. A library/museum has many books in English and other foreign languages.
While not as rigid as other centers, there is still a daily schedule that typically includes:
- Morning and evening group meditation sessions (optional)
- Dhamma talks
- Time for personal practice (sitting and walking meditation)
- Alms-giving and temple rituals
Noble silence is not strictly enforced.
Although the retreat is less formal, Wat Umong still offers meditation instruction for beginners, and there are regular Dhamma talks given by the resident monks. These talks provide valuable insight into Buddhist philosophy, meditation techniques, and practical advice for living mindfully.
While other Vipassana meditation centers can be highly disciplined with structured schedules, Wat Umong tends to have a more relaxed and informal atmosphere. Participants can follow their own rhythm in their practice, with optional daily meditation sessions. There’s still a strong focus on mindfulness, but the less stringent approach appeals to those who prefer a meditative retreat without the pressure of a strict schedule.
Meditation Teachers
Phra Khru Sukhandasila, abbot (Thai)
Phra Santitthito (Santi) (German) is no longer at Wat Umong. He now takes care of a large forest center in Australia as abbot and resident teacher: Wat Buddhadhamma, Ten Mile Hollow, Wisemans Ferry, New South Wales. A Western monk is usually in residence at Wat Umong.
Languages
One should be able to speak some Thai. Other senior monks, including the abbot, speak a little English.
For foreign visitors, English-speaking monks or lay practitioners are available, though it’s recommended to check in advance to ensure that guidance in English is available during your visit.
Description
One of the appealing aspects of Wat Umong is that it does not enforce strict, long-term retreat commitments like some other centers (such as Wat Ram Poeng or Wat Chom Tong). Meditators can join for a few days or stay for longer periods, depending on their personal preference and schedule.
This flexibility is especially attractive to travelers who may not have the time for extended retreats but still want to experience meditation in a structured environment.
Peaceful, wooded grounds of 37.5 rai (15 acres). You can feed the fish, turtles, and ducks in a large pond. “Talking trees” have words of wisdom in Thai and English. The wat is famous for its ancient tunnels and a large stupa.
Wat Umong is distinctive for its location within a natural forest, which creates a serene and peaceful environment for meditation. The temple grounds are shaded by large trees, and you’ll often hear the sounds of birds, insects, and the wind, which enhances the feeling of being close to nature.
This connection to the natural world makes Wat Umong ideal for those looking for a more relaxed and organic meditation experience compared to more formal or structured centers.
The temple also features ancient tunnels (hence the name “Umong,” meaning tunnel) built into an artificial hill, where monks and visitors can meditate. These tunnels create a quiet and sacred atmosphere that adds to the unique character of the temple.
Size
Wat Umong is an active monastery with a community of resident monks who are engaged in their daily routines of study, meditation, and teaching. As a participant in the retreat, you’ll have the opportunity to witness monastic life and participate in temple activities like alms-giving or chanting. This provides a more immersive experience of Thai Buddhism and meditation practice.
- monks: 45-75
- novices: about 10
- nuns: about 8
- laypeople: about 10
Daily Routine
A bell rings at 4 am. Monks and novices are encouraged (and laypeople welcome) to attend chanting at 4:30 am. and 5 pm. Monks and novices go on pindabat after morning chanting, then eat together in a wooden sala. Because discipline, practice, and schedule are left up to each person for the most part, self-motivation is especially important. Laypeople on a short visit can follow 5 precepts; longer-term visitors should observe 8 precepts.
Meals
Monks eat once or twice a day from food collected on pindabat. Nuns normally cook their own food. Laypeople can also arrange meals at nearby shops or take from monk’s leftovers.
Like other meditation centers in Thailand, the meals provided are simple and vegetarian, and participants usually eat two meals per day (breakfast and lunch) following monastic tradition. There are usually some light refreshments available later in the day for participants who may not be accustomed to fasting after noon.
Accommodations
The accommodation at Wat Umong is basic, with individual or shared rooms available for retreat participants. The facilities are clean and simple, providing what you need for a minimalist and meditative lifestyle. The retreat experience is designed to help participants focus on mindfulness and meditation without distractions from material comforts.
Individual kutis in separate areas for monks/novices, nuns, and laypeople. Kutis, somewhat closely spaced, have screens and electricity; some also have attached Thai-style bathrooms (Asian and some Western-style toilets) and running water.
Write in Advance?
Yes, write or enquire well in advance. Only a small number of kutis are available for laypeople.
Ordination Available?
Possible for both short- and long-term as a novice, monk, or magee (nun). One has a personal interview with the abbot to request ordination. If approved, one usually trains at Wat Umong for at least one month before ordination.
Other Information
The monastery, one of the oldest in the Chiang Mai area, may date as far back as 1300 A.D. Legend tells that a king built the brick-lined tunnels for a clairvoyant but sometimes eccentric monk named Thera Jan. Paintings dated to about 1380 once decorated the walls.
You can enter the tunnels to see the small shrines inside (a flashlight is useful). The adjacent stupa was constructed about 1520 over an earlier stupa (1400-1500).
The monastery eventually fell into disuse, though Japanese troops were said to garrison here during WW II. Since 1948, the Thai prince Jao Chun Sirorot, now in his 90s, has been active in rebuilding and reestablishing the monastery.
In 1949 he invited Buddhadasa Bhikkhu (founder of Suan Mokkh in southern Thailand) to come and live here. Duties kept Buddhadasa Bhikkhu from coming.
Instead, he sent Ajahn Pannananda and other monks to help set up and run Wat Umong.
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